No yoking!!

This post is specifically for FSHN 1315 students (to whom it will make sense.)  Please read all the way to the end, there is an assignment there.

DO use your textbook step-by-step, so of course you will be pinning CF and putting your selvage tie tightly around the waist of the dressform, etc.

Today you need to work to finalize all the draping of your yoked, gathered skirt.  It seems that everyone has completed the draping and truing of the yoke. This means that you are at some stage of draping the gathered skirt/yoked gathered.  Here are some things to remember.

We are draping TWO skirts at the same time.  This means that once the drape is perfected on the dressform, there will be TWO places to mark the gathered skirt.

Although your textbook shows the skirt section being draped OVER the yoke drape, we remove the yoke drape to be better able to find, feel, and mark the line where the skirt meets the bottom of the yoke.

The actual draping of the gathered skirt section is perfected by accurately pinning the HBL of the skirt to the exact HBL of the dressform.  When pinning the HBL, place two pins \/ toward each other about every inch (or less) on the HBL.  Since you will be tugging at the fabric above the HBL, this \/ pinning helps to keep the fabric from slipping upward and moving off the HBL.

Make certain that all gathers are equal throughout the drape.  “Back in the day”, we achieved this by pinning 1/8th inch pin tucks across the entire HBL. This was tedious and time-consuming (yes, even more than the way you will achieve these perfectly spaced gathers.)

Only after the HBL is perfectly and securely pinned (with equal gathers), begin the process of draping each and every gather to be perpendicular with the HBL.  Do not let any gathers flare right or left of their origin on the HBL.

Also be certain that you are not leaving any excess fabric between the waist tie and the HBL (what we might call a pooch.)  Therefore pull the fabric taut between HBL and the waist.  At this point, your drape should be perfected.

We recommend that you mark the skirt drape with your fine point pencil BOTH at the waist and on EACH pin of your yokeline pin-marking.  Mark carefully.  It is time-consuming and the more elaborate the shape of your yoke, the more time it should take to mark the skirt drape.  Perfecting these marks will be done later but they must be as accurate as possible now to avoid much more work later (like, re-draping and re-marking.)

Leave your drape on the dressform until someone has a chance to check it for accuracy.  We will plan to do that on Wednesday.

For those of you who have made good progress on the skirt drape before today and already have it marked, you may proceed with your work on truing and blending your lines and finalizing your drape, including pinning it on the dress form.

Assignment:  read (and reread if necessary) the steps for draping the six-gore skirt.  Be prepared to discuss this skirt on Wednesday.


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